Saturday, November 19, 2022

Irregardless

Irregardless is a new wine bistro located along H St NE corridor that features a six-course seasonal tasting menu from Chef Ben Browning and a bar program run by Christine Cabatuan in collaboration with owners, Ian and Mika Carlin. Two tasting menus ($85), one omnivore and one vegetarian, are offered alongside two optional beverage pairings ($65), one of which will exclusively focus on Virginia wine and spirits. The Modern American tasting menus draw inspiration from the bounty of the Mid-Atlantic region, with a strong focus on local and sustainable ingredients. Closest Metro is Union Station.

We started with a shot of Gazpacho which has a bright zing from the basil and opened the palate for the full menu to follow.

The first course was Fluke Crudo with lime dressing, chili, radish, and grapefruit paired with a glass of Thibaut-Janisson, Extra Brut Chardonnay, from Waynesboro, Virginia.  The fish was full of bright citrus flavor and was amplified by the soft bubbles.

Next we ate Figs with balsamic, yogurt, and za’atar paired with a glass of 2020 Viognier, Walsh Family Wines, from Purcellville, Virginia.  The figs were not as sweet as I expected, which was a nice surprise.  The tang of the yogurt also complimented the white wine.  This was a very unique and enjoyable pairing.

Another unique dish that was a favorite was the Scallop Schnitzel - breaded scallops with a frisée salad topped with lardons and boiled egg.  This dish was paired with a glass of 2020 Grüner Veltliner, Ox-Eye Vineyards, 'Grü-V,’ from Virginia and gave me "lunch in Alsace" vibes.  It was delicious!

For the pasta course, I ate the Okinawan Purple Sweet Potato Gnocchi with sage, almond, beets, and ricotta salata.  This dish was earthy from the beets and paired well with a glass of light-red 2020 Lightwell Survey, ‘Dos Idiots,’ from Shenandoah Valley, Virginia. A blend of 52% Cabernet Franc and 48% Petit Manseng, the palate was elegant and rich with ashy tannins and strong notes of ripe strawberry and plum. 

Keith loved his Pappardelle with lamb ragu and parmesan paired with a glass of 2019 Barbera Reserve, Barboursville Vineyards, from Barboursville, Virginia.  He could tell the pasta was made fresh and the sauce was very hearty and satisfying. 

For the main course, I ate Shrimp and Grits with a spicy piperade.  This dish was paired with a glass of 2019 Pinotage, Lovingston, ‘Single Barrel Gilbert’s Vineyard,’ from Lovingston, Virginia.  The shrimp were meaty and cooked perfectly and the grits were super creamy.  The smokiness from the wine really complimented this southern-style dish.

Keith ate Short Rib Bourguignon with mashed potatoes, carrot, chippolini, and mushroom paired with a glass of 2021 Tannat, Gabriele Rausse Winery, from Albemarle County, Virginia.  The wine was bold and married well with this comforting beef dish.

Dessert was Sweet Ricotta with blood orange, vanilla, and sherry for Keith and Tarte pour Jim with apple, almond, and black currant for me. Both were paired with a glass of sweet wine 2017 Petit Manseng, Linden Vineyards, 'Late Harvest,' from Linden, Virginia.  

Overall we had a wonderful meal - Mika was an excellent sommelier explaining each Virginian wine and gave generous pours to compliment the great food prepared by chef Ben.  With all the recent buzz, the place was very busy and we noticed a few walk-ins had to be turned away.  Additionally, our server mentioned they were trying to quickly turn tables and I could feel her rushed energy, which was a tad uncomfortable. Nevertheless, the space was bright and open and is a welcomed wine bistro that I'm sure we will visit again.

Total Rating: 4.33

Food: 4.5, Price: 3.5, Service: 4.5, Ambience: 4.5, Accessibility: 5

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